Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I ship my block?
- 1. We recommend the use of two high burst rate boxes.
- 2. Put the two boxes together and add a piece a cardboard to the bottom of the box.
- 3. Place block inside box with the mains down or if main girdle is attached top down. Use cardboard to reinforce the outside of the box and then use either bubble wrap or more cardboard to fill in the extra space. Note: Do not use peanuts when shipping blocks. The peanuts are not enough to keep the block from breaking through the side of the box.
- 4. Place another piece of cardboard on the top of the block and tape shut inside block. Note: Do not place loose parts in the box. Put all hardware in a plastic bag.
- 5. Include a copy of the Customer Spec Sheet and confirm that the correct return address is on it. Tape up the top of the box completely and ship.
- Remember: Make sure the block is completely stripped of all parts. The only thing we need on the blocks is the main caps and bolts. Make sure the block is completely clean of all grease, oil and dirt. We prefer that the blocks get hot tanked. If the block is dirty when it arrives there will be a $50 charge to hot tank the block. Make sure you add enough insurance to cover the price of the block should damage occur during shipping. The most common reason you do not get a claim approved is due to the block not being packaged correctly. Do not ship V8 blocks in a cardboard box!!! Use a shipping container or ship block on a pallet.
- What is the typical turnaround time?
- We usually ship blocks back to the customer within 5 working days; however we always inform the customer up front what the actual schedule will be.
- What's the difference between "wet sleeves" and "dry sleeves"?
- Wet Sleeves as the name implies, are surrounded by water when installed are considered wet sleeves. The significant difference in sleeve design beyond the terms wet or dry are what structure within the cylinder carries the load. In a dry application they cylinder compressive force is carried by the sleeve and the block. In a wet sleeve application the compressive force is totally supported by the sleeve. Therefore, by nature of application and intended use, wet sleeves must be very strong and mechanically able to withstand compressive and frictional forces throughout their total unsupported length.
- Dry sleeves are named so because the sleeve body is not exposed to any cooling liquid within the block and is always installed in a block with an interference fit.
- How do I breaking in my new engine?
- Fill the engine with a good grade of mineral oil (not synthetic) with viscosity for your bearing clearance and intended use. Prime the oil system before engine start with ignition off using the engine or dyno starter. We require break-in and tuning using an engine dyno or chassis dyno as follows:
- After initial start up, warm up engine at 2000-2500. Precaution should be exercised to prevent excessively rich or lean conditions, which will gall the cylinders. Monitor oil pressure and temperatures.
- After initial run, adjust valves if using adjustable valve train and retorque heads. Check for leaks.
- Street engines will require multiple run ins with increasing rpm and load up to maximum output.
- Use of a dyno allows one to apply a pre-set load to allow the piston rings, and other components to seat properly. It is also much easier to monitor temperatures and pressures than while driving. Most dynos are equipped with O≈ and EGT probes to aid in tuning. The timing and fuel curve needs to be tailored to your particular engine to ensure the engine stays out of detonation, which will lead to engine failure. A racing engine is generally built with sufficient clearance to require no further break-in after dyno tuning and power runs. However, we recommend head bolt torques be re-checked cold after dyno testing as the head gaskets will take a set. Remember to replace oil and filter after the dyno session as bearing coatings and metal particles will be trapped in the oil filter. Inspect the oil for foreign material and excessive bearing flakes.
- A street engine should be driven moderately for the first thousand miles, as follows:
- full throttle high torque power useage should be limited and never be used until the engine has been running for at least 15 minutes.
- from 0-500 miles, do not exceed 4000 rpm.
- from 500-1000, do not exceed 6000 rpm.
- over 1000 miles, no restrictions.
- Also, do not run at the same speed for extended periods during break-in. Make certain the engine is operating at proper coolant temperature and oil pressure. Do not allow the engine to overheat. Make necessary changes if required (radiator, fan, tuning) to get the engine to run in the proper temperature range. We also recommend you do not run synthetic oil until at least 5000 miles. Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break in properly if it is used too soon.